I have just finished reading “Cassava & Cardamom”, the debut book from local chef Kareem Roberts. If you’ve spent any time dining out in Cambridge, you’ll likely know Kareem from his work as the head chef at The Burleigh Arms. I have met Kareem many times over the years and have gotten to know him well, so I was really looking forward to this one. I was excited to dive in and learn more about the man himself and discover the story behind those bold flavours.

The title of the book is a perfect marriage of his two worlds and a nod to his journey: the Cassava representing his Antiguan roots and that “nose-to-tail” pragmatism he grew up with, and the Cardamom representing the refined polish he has developed through years, in some of the UK’s toughest kitchens.

From Antigua to the Estrella Top 100

The book opens with some lovely quotes from other chefs who have worked alongside him, like Andi Oliver and Kerth Gumbs. It’s always telling when a chef is held in such high regard by their peers, and it sets the tone for what is a very personal and honest journey.

The first half is a memoir titled “Brokedinner”, which traces Kareem’s path from his childhood in Antigua to the professional kitchens of Cambridge. He talks about his early memories of saltfish and the smell of brine and smoke – not as some fancy gourmet concept, but as a staple of survival and ceremony. I found his honesty about his early life and the various hurdles he faced particularly refreshing; he doesn’t shy away from the reality of the graft required to make it in this industry.

It is a real “bounce-back” story. He takes us through his journey into elite kitchens, including his time at Midsummer House, before eventually finding his feet at some of our local favourites like The Punter and Trinity. As a Cambridge resident, I really enjoyed seeing the numerous references to our city woven into his story; it makes the book feel relatable and more of a local success story we can all take a bit of pride in.

Bringing the professional kitchen home

I actually tried cooking the chicken curry from the recipe page myself, and it was a massive success – my family absolutely loved it. Curry is a dish I cook often at home, so I was keen to try a professional take on it. I genuinely appreciated that the ingredient list wasn’t overly complex, with almost everything accessible from the local supermarket. However, his multi-layered technique of roasting spices and charring the chicken before adding the sauce was something I wouldn’t have considered before and it gave a depth of flavour to the dish.

At £45, it sits at a higher price point, but this isn’t a book you simply read once and throw away. It is a substantial, beautiful piece of work that you’ll find yourself returning to again and again. The photography is stunning – much like his cooking – and it’s the kind of book you want to leave out on the coffee table just to admire, before bringing it back into the kitchen whenever you want to invigorate your evening.

A book I’ll keep forever…

Overall, “Cassava & Cardamom” is a triumph. It’s more than just a cookbook; it’s a love letter to his heritage and a testament to the hard work that goes on behind the kitchen doors. It makes me think about all the restaurants I have visited without contemplating the struggle and story behind the chefs serving me. Kareem has managed to bottle that sense of joy and history and put it on the page in a very short and easy to digest read.

If you want to understand the man behind the menu, or if you’re just looking for some vibrant Caribbean inspiration for your own kitchen, I highly recommend picking this up. You can find it online here but honestly, the best way to experience Kareem’s vision is to book a table at The Burleigh Arms and see it for yourself.

​Thanks for reading!