Few dining establishments in Cambridge command the respect and admiration quite like Restaurant 22. It is more than just a restaurant but an institution which is consistently lauded by locals and critics alike as one of the city’s undisputed titans. Not only does it proudly wear a Michelin star but it also remarkably offers surprising value for such a high-end experience, often coming in at half the price of its closest rival, Midsummer House.

Yet, despite its remarkable value, the fine dining experience at Restaurant 22 has, by its very nature, remained an aspirational luxury for many. 

Enter Margaret’s, the eagerly awaited and brand-new “younger sibling” to Restaurant 22. Located a mere two doors down on Chesterton Road, this vibrant fine dining bistro is conceived with the idea of making it genuinely accessible to all. With a keen focus on modern British cuisine, Margaret’s promises to deliver the same impeccable quality but in a more relaxed and approachable setting – Fine dining for the people!

The Restaurant

Margaret’s welcomes diners into stylish surroundings that feel both spacious and intimate at the same time. Flooded with natural light from a large, continuous window at the front, which has been fitted with a beautiful bar running alongside it. This makes it ideal for solo diners looking to soak in the daily bustle of Chesterton Road.

The interior achieves the clever trick of being strikingly minimalist yet deeply warm and comforting at the same time. With the wooden floors and chocolate-brown seating contrasting beautifully against crisp cream walls. Booths are also provided for a more casual dining experience, setting itself apart from the formal dining of Restaurant 22.

A small observation my guest and I both noticed was regarding the table size. Despite the overall spaciousness of the restaurant, our table felt rather cosy. Even accounting for my phone and camera, which do take up some room, it became evident that the surface area was quickly overwhelmed, making it slightly cluttered throughout the evening.

I was delighted to see that Margaret’s not only had wheelchair access into the building but also a dedicated disabled toilet.
And yes, I have to mention the toilets themselves, as they were filled with a beautiful lavender scent that was so calming, it genuinely made me feel like I was floating back to my table. If you think I am exaggerating, I am not alone in noticing this, as other members of the Cambridge Foodies group have already raved about the divine smell of their toilets. It is a small detail but it speaks volumes about the care Margaret’s puts into every aspect of the guest experience.

Craft beer

Our evening at Margaret’s began with a complimentary glass of sparkling wine. This unexpected treat was not only a lovely gesture but also offered an opportunity to leisurely browse the menu, setting a refined tone for the meal to come.

The wine list has a decent selection, featuring some truly compelling choices, including a particularly inviting cherry-red, priced at a remarkably accessible £20 for a bottle. While a wine felt more appropriate for a fine dining experience, both my guest and I found ourselves irresistibly drawn to a specific craft beer – Baron’s own ‘Thirsty Boy 3’. This pale ale is a unique collaboration between Baron Brewery (located just across the Cambridgeshire border) and the Thirsty team (a local craft beer gem also situated on Chesterton Road). For those who follow our craft beer social media page, you’ll know that Thirsty is widely celebrated as one of the region’s absolute best for unique beers.

This particular brew was one of the strongest pale ales I have encountered in a long while. Its thick, hazy appearance and incredibly vibrant tangy flavour danced on my tongue which was followed by a surprisingly refreshing zesty aftertaste. It was everything I wanted from a beer and more. At £7 for a 500ml can, I found the price perfectly reasonable, especially considering the central Cambridge location. As my guest quite rightly pointed out, even a pint (which is larger than 500ml) of Neck Oil costs more at his local pub in Waterbeach. When it comes to a direct comparison, I can confidently say that Thirsty Boy 3 leaves Neck Oil in the dust.

The Menu

Margaret’s offers a refined set menu at £65 per person, featuring a choice of three main courses and two desserts. This isn’t a sprawling menu designed to cater to every whim but is rather a streamlined selection that focuses intensely on a few chosen dishes and executes them with precision.
While some diners might initially view this limited choice as restrictive, I see it as incredibly reassuring. In my fifteen years of reviewing restaurants, I have learned that truly outstanding dining experiences often come from embracing this philosophy. With finite kitchen capacity and meticulous attention to detail, even the finest and most organised restaurants benefit from a narrower focus. This approach ensures that every dish on Margaret’s menu is carefully conceived, thoughtfully considered, and brought to life through a nurturing cooking process that is almost entirely dedicated to its perfection. When you “just trust the chef” (especially one as talented as Sam Carter) you are placing your palate in his skilled hands, and that, to me, is the epitome of an elevated dining experience. I decided to wholeheartedly embrace this idea with confidence as I knew that I would be rewarded for my trust.

To Begin

We were presented with some rosemary and sea salt focaccia, along with a couple of spreads and dips.

The focaccia arrived pre-sliced in a charming wooden box. Its thick, crispy crust gave way to an impossibly soft, light, and fluffy middle that felt cloud-esque. My guest invited me to truly appreciate its freshness by smelling the bread, a smell that sent my senses back to a simpler time of my childhood where I would collect the bread from the local bakery. Nostalgia hits hard!

The dips included an incredible blackcurrant vinegar that has been carefully fermented for 18 months. Its deep, inky colour in the bowl transformed the focaccia into a vibrant raspberry red as the bread absorbed it. The focaccia’s light, delicate flavour provided the ideal canvas, allowing the vinegar to take center stage. Honestly, I never thought I would get that excited about vinegar!

While I thoroughly enjoyed the broad bean pesto and the vivid colour it added to the table, the hummus truly stole the show. Unlike most hummus, which can have a somewhat grainy texture, this one was exceptionally smooth, almost like cream. Its light texture caught me off guard with an unexpected hit of flavour that felt impossible with something so delicate.
The Gordal olives were another standout. These large Spanish olives, renowned for their plump, meaty texture and subtly delicate flavour, were perfect for casual snacking and added a delightful colour to the table.

Next up was a selection of starter dishes. I couldn’t help but notice that some are labelled as “CoFarm”, a community farm project in Cambridge that focuses on agroecology and sustainable food production. This is a testament to their commitment to sustainability and local sourcing.

Pictured above

• A cup of pea soup, goat curds, wild garlic

• CoFarm crudites, cod’s roe & chilli condiment

• Cornish monkfish, lemon, ginger & seaweed

• Somerset Saxon chicken terrine

Visually, the Somerset Saxon chicken terrine was a masterpiece, boasting a vibrant, patchwork presentation that was truly a pleasure to behold. The prune and Armagnac chutney offered a sweet, fruity ying to the savory chickens yang, creating a truly complex balance and an overall memorable experience.

One of the undisputed highlights of the evening was their Cornish monkfish with lemon, ginger & seaweed. This is another example of their dedication to British sourcing but also clear demonstration of their excellent knowledge, as monkfish is not only one of my favourite fish but as my guest (who just so happens to be an ex fish monger) quite rightly pointed out, the cheek is the best cut. With this in mind, I was nearly exploding with excitement to experience this and it didn’t disappoint in the slightest.

An incredible cod’s roe chili condiment elevated this exquisite dish, lending a smokey and incredibly punchy taste. It invigorated everything it touched with a delicate spicy kick, adding an extra dimension of flavour and complexity.

The pea soup had a bold green colour that worked beautifully with the vibrant array of crunchy asparagus, cucumber, purple carrots, and radishes served alongside. True to the saying, “the first bite is with the eye,” this dish was a carnival of colours and variety. The soup itself was thick and creamy with bursts of acidity from the capers that really brought it to life.

A feisty lemon mayo particularly charmed me with its citrusy tang, elevating everything it touched with life and energy. This may sound like an overstatement for mayonnaise but it genuinely turned out to be one of my highlights of the meal. Margaret’s Lemon Mayo in a bottle, anyone? 😍

To Follow

For our mains, we were given the choice between the following dishes.

• Roasted rump of Nidderdale lamb, carrot & cumin

• North Sea cod, fermented peppercorns

• Warm tart of Old Winchester & Abington asparagus

Both my guest and I were adamant that we wanted the roasted lamb but we were also curious to try the cod. Cod is not normally a fish that excites us, so we were keen to find out how the team at Margaret’s would revitalise it for us.

Sourced from the North Sea, it is served with fermented peppercorns and garnished with the cutest little mushrooms I have ever seen. The fish had a crispy skin that was met by a succulent texture in the middle. This made the ideal base for the fermented peppercorns that took centre stage with a rich peppery flavour and creaminess that danced perfectly with the crispy cod. It was a dish that gently kissed me with flavour while firmly reminding me with a whisper in my ear to never doubt cod again.

The Nidderdale lamb was perfectly cooked, boasting rich, almost tarry edges, that tasted like the intense, caramelised goodness scraped from the bottom of a roasting tin. This unlocked a warm, nostalgic memory, making me feel right at home…the second time this has happened to me this evening.

Its stunning pink center revealed a lamb that was everything it should be: soft, tender, and incredibly delicious. With each bite, juices burst out in an explosion of flavour. A dollop of carrot and cumin purée served as a more gentle mustard-esque counterpoint. Its more subtle flavours harmonised with the plate and complemented the lamb and rich meaty jus, creating a sum far greater than its individual parts.

Served with…

Our mains were served with smoked jersey royals, a flourish salad, raspberry vinaigrette, CoFarm tomatoes and dill pickles.

The CoFarm’s tomatoes were a revelation. Their thick, vibrant flesh and deep flavor truly invigorated me, defying my expectations for such a humble fruit. As a picky eater when it comes to fresh tomatoes, I was completely won over. The salad and smoked Jersey Royals adequately rounded out the meal completing the dish into a balanced meal.

To Finish

We signed off the evening with a choice between two desserts.

First up was a rather striking treacle tart which was beautifully presented with boozy cherries and a dollop of sour cream. I was immediately drawn to the tart’s gorgeous golden-brown glow, perfectly complemented by the dark red cherries that hinted at a rich flavour. And rich it was, with a delightful boozy finish that deepened their taste.
The sour cream was the perfect counterpoint: light, creamy, and just tangy enough to cut through the treacle’s sweetness. Texturally, the smooth creaminess worked so well with the crumbly pastry, adding a diverse and satisfying feel to each bite.

Interestingly, the tart wasn’t overly sweet. In fact, it had the mildest sweetness I have ever encountered in a dessert without it being savoury. This initially divided my opinion as I usually expect a sweet sign-off after a savoury meal. However, I couldn’t help but notice how this allowed me to focus more on the dish’s flavour. It was clear to me that this was intentional, a brilliant example of how a visit to Margaret’s consistently challenges your perceptions of contemporary cuisine but I was also aware that this unique approach might divide opinions.

The Lancashire Bomb malt loaf with caramelised onions was a real curveball. After such a mildly sweet dish with the treacle tart, I was not expecting an entirely savoury dessert.

This completely defied my expectations and despite being unsure what to expect, I was genuinely surprised by how much I enjoyed the sharp, almost “explosive” flavour of the Lancashire Bomb cheese. It added a really unique salty taste that played well with the otherwise fruity and earthy notes of the malt loaf. While I definitely appreciated it as a standalone creation, I am still not entirely sold on savoury desserts as a concept for myself.

Extra To Finish

And finally, we were given a type of shell shaped sponge cakes, called madeleines. These were served as a tray alongside a small pot of strawberry & elderflower jam and two dark chocolate & sea salt truffles.

This last treat was a pleasant surprise as it was not listed on the menu but also quenched my still lingering sugary urges. The madeleines were soft and sweet, perfect for dipping in the strawberry and elderflower jam. But what really grabbed my attention were the dark chocolate truffles.
These little balls of darkness were like mini black holes with an impossibly deep flavour that you could truly lose yourself in. As someone who’s eaten their way across Belgium, I have simply never encountered a truffle quite like it.

Casual fine dining

Margaret’s truly delivers on its promise: contemporary fine dining in an accessible, casual setting. Our meal for two came in at just under £200, offering significant savings compared to other fine dining spots in Cambridge, all while maintaining an unquestionable standard of quality.
Honestly, I couldn’t find a single fault this evening. From the warm and attentive service to each individual dish, Margaret’s found genuinely exciting ways to challenge my perceptions of dining.

This restaurant is an absolute must-visit for anyone who appreciates the finer things. I can easily see Margaret’s becoming the go-to spot for special occasions like anniversaries or birthdays, letting you celebrate without the stuffiness of white tablecloths or the worry of breaking the bank.

Thanks for reading