“ad” – Why is this here?

There is a bit of a somber mood in the Cambridge food scene this week. Kareem Roberts, the man who has been a familiar and much loved chef in our local kitchens for 15 years – from the much-missed Trinity to his recent success here – is hanging up his apron in the UK. He’s heading off on a new journey to Antigua, but not before one final service at The Burleigh Arms.

I was invited down by the manager, Tom Arnold, to experience Kareem’s final menu. If you’ve followed my reviews of his Sunday Roasts or his “KFC-style” wings with strawberry hot sauce, you’ll know Kareem doesn’t do boring. This final menu is a vibrant, personal celebration of his Caribbean heritage blended with the modern British flair that earned him a spot on Great British Menu.

The Vibe

The Burleigh Arms is a historic gem, dating back to the 1820s, and it’s one of those places that manages to still feel like a proper pub while serving food that punches way above its weight class. Walking in, you get that distinctive Cambridge feel – traditional, cosy, and tastefully decorated with artistic tributes to our city.

The beginning

We started with the Home Baked Bread. It came with a celery hummus with scotch bonnet oil and a cashew butter that were both dangerously moreish. It was a simple start, but showed the level of care in the kitchen – there’s nothing brought off the shelf here!

Being a big cashew fan, I was expecting the cashew butter to be my favourite of the two but I found the celery hummus to be significantly more refreshing, with a surprising complex flavour. Only Kareem could take an ingredient as famously dull as celery and make it exciting.

Cucumber Tarte

We kicked things off with a Cucumber tartare. This was incredibly fresh, served with a velvety avocado mousse and a hit of garlic, jalapenos and relish. It was vibrant, zesty, and the perfect palate cleanser to start the meal.

Crab & Spinach arancini

Next up was the Crab and Spinach Arancini. Regular readers know I’m a sucker for a good arancini, and this was a beautiful execution of the popular Italian dish. It was served over a shellfish salad which added a frothy texture and lightly salty depth to the crunchy, golden shell. It’s exactly the kind of modern culinary artistry Tom and Kareem have been championing here.

Mexican pork collar

I love pork and I love spice, so I was very excited to try this one. The pork was tender and rich, topped with chili flakes and pumpkin seeds for a satisfying texture and spiciness that added a bit of excitement to the dining experience. It had a deep, smoky warmth with a bolder, heavier flavour than the previous dishes.

Lamb Lasagne

This wasn’t your standard Italian fare. The lamb lasagne was built with multiple crispy layers that give way to a soft, succulent centre, offering an exciting contrast between the crunch and the juicy meat in every bite. It was served alongside a smooth potato crème and a sharp apple chutney that was a real revelation. The chutney reminded me of a lime pickle from an Indian restaurant – it was sharp, sweet, and sour all at once. The way that acidity cut through the rich, savoury lamb perfectly showcased Kareem’s ability to bend the rules while still delivering pure comfort on a plate.

Dessert

We finished with the Cornmeal Tart. Cornmeal is a staple ingredient in Antigua, making this dish feel like a poignant nod to Kareem’s next chapter. Paired with pumpkin, it had a lovely earthy sweetness and a diverse texture from the crumbly pastry crust to the soft filling. It was a sophisticated, thoughtful end to a meal that was as flavourful as it was memorable.

It’s rare to find a chef who can turn humble ingredients into high-end innovation, but Kareem Roberts has always managed to bring those ingredients to life while putting a piece of himself into every plate.

Yesterday marked Kareem’s final night at the pass, so while you may have missed the chance to catch this specific menu, a little birdy tells me this might not be the last time we see his influence in Cambridge (down the line).

The Burleigh Arms remains a historic gem in the heart of the city, and while Kareems departure to Antigua leaves incredibly big shoes to fill, speaking with Tom Arnold, it’s clear that this is far from the end of the journey for the pub. A new head chef is already lined up to take the reins, bringing a serious pedigree who has worked under some big names and carrying two rosettes under his belt.

It is a heartfelt, imaginative goodbye to a Cambridge legend, but stay tuned – because with that level of talent coming in, I expect big things are just around the corner for The Burleigh Arms and I can’t wait to find out what they are!

Thanks for reading!