There’s something wonderfully quirky about a cafe without a proper sign, especially one hidden away in plain sight on the busy Broadway side of Mill Road. Yet, despite this contrarian attitude towards marketing, Urban Larder is constantly bustling, which has always added an intriguing allure.

On a warm and sunny autumn afternoon, my family and I were looking for a light lunch to satisfy a fussy toddler, and we decided it was the perfect time to finally try this renowned cheese toastie spot.

Like many establishments on Mill Road, the cafe is small, but the owners have made excellent use of the space. A wooden bar runs along the window, which can be opened to allow for people-watching and a fresh breeze. The outdoor seating is plentiful and was ideal for the beautiful weather. While the place does get busy, making it quite cosy and a bit of a battle for a seat, we were lucky enough to find a spot almost immediately.

The menu

The menu is refreshingly simple. Outside, a window display proclaims “coffee and toasties,” and that’s precisely what you’ll find inside, along with a small selection of cakes and salads. This is a place that focuses on what it does best.

The signature ‘Big Cheesy’ is made with “cheese, cheese and cheese,” which suggests a luxurious blend of three different types (or at very least, a damn lot of cheese). I was also delighted to learn their sourdough is made by the iconic, Ely-based bakery Grain Culture. You can also add extras like chili oil, onion chutney, bacon, or sausage for a small fee, ranging from £1 to £3.50.

​What really caught my eye, though, was the ‘Cheesy Hits’ specials menu, which features more exotic and innovative toasties for a premium price. The ‘(sitting on) the docks of Bombay’ toastie, an Indian-inspired creation, immediately sparked my interest.

I don’t often discuss prices in my reviews, as it is a subjective issue. However, everyone at our table commented on the £11.50 price tag for a cheese toastie. Don’t get me wrong, it was a truly extravagant creation, but I couldn’t help but feel that was expensive, especially for a meat-free option. However, as basic economics dictates, the market decides a product’s value, and Urban Larder is almost always packed every time we walk past. It is clear that people are willing to pay for this experience and therefore worth it. But if you’re looking for that cheap and cheerful snack (like I was expecting) then forget about it.

The Docks Of Bombay

My ‘Docks of Bombay’ toastie arrived with a beautiful golden colour. The sourdough was perfectly crispy, while the inside was generously loaded with soft, fluffy Bombay potato and a helping of mango and coriander chutney that gave it a mild sweetness.

The cheese was present but didn’t dominate, which was a nice surprise. This allowed the other ingredients to truly shine, creating a more robust and complex flavour profile. The cheese was still gooey and soft enough to hold everything together without being overwhelming.

Cheesy Does it!

For my son, we ordered the classic ‘Cheesy Half’, which is a smaller version of their signature ‘Cheesy Does It’. I was a little disappointed, as something advertised with “cheese, cheese and cheese” was surprisingly light on it. While the flavour was excellent and my son had a great time pulling long, gooey strings of cheese from the sandwich, I was left wondering whether the signature item lived up to its name? 🤔

Probably not.

Novel fun

Ultimately, Urban Larder fits perfectly into that quirky corner of Mill Road with a fun concept that people clearly love. While it may not offer the value of a quick toastie on-the-go or the pure indulgence of an over-the-top, messy foodie find from London, it is a quick and fun way to try something a little different.

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