If your search for an elevated Sunday roast experience has left you feeling tired and frustrated, I have delightful news – Margaret’s is now serving them!

Regular readers will recall my previous glowing review of Margaret’s, where I praised their commitment to local sourcing, striking presentation, and illuminating flavours. I was eager to see how the culinary genius of Michelin chef, Sam Carter, would be applied to this British institution – the Sunday roast, a dish known for dividing opinions and being entirely subjective on its success.

Stylish warmth

As previously mentioned on the blog, Margaret’s is easily missed on Chesterton Road. It is small, modest, and doesn’t scream from the rooftops with obnoxious signage like many other restaurants. It has a more subdued presence, giving a feeling of prestige, reserved for people in the know.

Upon entering, the space is minimalist yet stylish, striking a perfect balance between sleek design and genuine warmth. I was lucky enough to try one of their booths, something I have never had the pleasure of trying before. I found it to be more comfortable than the tables, as it offered a more snug and intimate experience that felt more private.

Focaccia made from air

To prepare our palates, we were treated to a selection of small plates, which were all included within the price. There is no doubt that some may find the £65pp price tag a little off putting for a roast dinner, but rest assured, this isn’t just a plate of food but a culinary journey that includes a dozen artistically constructed plates along the way. This was a brilliant touch, offering a variety of bites while we eagerly awaited the main event.

My favourite centrepiece was a beautiful rosemary & sea salt focaccia. You may remember this from my previous visit to Margaret’s and seems to be one of their signature dishes. It boasts a thick, crispy crust and an impossibly light, airy centre – the perfect vehicle for soaking up the accompanying olive oil and fermented vinegar.

Starters:

Ham Hock Terrine

I was instantly captivated by the ham hock & black pudding terrine. This small rectangle of flavourful joy was presented on a smooth white pebble, a stunning presentation for a surprisingly complex flavour profile.

Chalk steam trout

The chalk stream trout was a masterclass in textural contrast, served in crisp cucumber cups that housed finely chopped vegetables, apple, and shiso. As someone generally indifferent about trout, I was truly won over by this modest, balanced approach, as the ingredients complemented the fish rather than allowing it to overpower the dish.

The best pumpkin of my life

One of the personal highlights of my entire experience was the lovely Crown Prince pumpkin fritter, made with truffle honey. This dish completely shattered my long-held view of pumpkin being a rather dull and uninspiring vegetable.

The truffle honey delivered a sweet stickiness that elevated the fritter in a truly unexpected way. Margaret’s has achieved what I thought was impossible; this is arguably the most exciting and inventive seasonal take on pumpkin I have ever had.

The Main Event

A common fear while visiting a fine dining establishments is receiving a beautifully presented but tiny portion. This was not an issue here, as I was presented with two substantial slices of roasted sirloin Magness farm Angus beef, which took up much of the plate. The commitment to local sourcing shone through, with Magness Farm located near Saffron Walden being known for its quality produce.

The sirloin was topped with a huge and vibrant carrot, which had been cooked confit-style in beef fat, resulting in a soft mushy texture and a meaty flavour. A generous splash of turnip & horseradish purée was spread across the plate. Unlike the usual overpowering kick of raw horseradish, this purée was peppery and subtly spicy, harmonising with the other flavours to create something truly synergistic.

Roasties

The roast potatoes were simple but excellent. Big, light, and crispy, with a big fluffy centre. These were utterly flawless. There really isn’t much more to say!

Ox cheek Yorkies!

A Yorkshire pudding can be the defining factor of a Sunday roast. Nothing is more deflating than one poorly cooked. The team at Margaret’s clearly understands this, and they have taken the humble Yorkie and executed it perfectly. But they didn’t stop there and decided to take it to incredible new heights by stuffing it with pulled ox cheek.

This nearly blew my mind! The soft, incredibly tender ox cheek melted into the delicate body of the Yorkshire pudding. This, combined with the rich gravy, transformed two of my most beloved staples into the ultimate winter warmer. Absolutely amazing!

Dessert

I concluded the meal with a slice of The Duke blue cheese, served alongside fruit toast and fig chutney. I often moan about the measly portions on cheese boards across Cambridge. Here, however, the blue cheese was a good sized wedge, delivered a gooey, brie-esque texture that still retained the classic, punchy flavour of a strong blue. This is a cheese that had it all.

A Little Extra

Just when we thought the experience was over, we were presented with warm Madeleines served with an incredible raspberry jam. This simple yet effective treat became one of the unexpected highlights of the meal, entirely credited to the intense flavour of the jam. My guest and I were shamelessly scooping the remnants out with our fingers like utter savages. Just when you think you have had the best of everything, Margret’s still manages to inspire you in the most unexpected and unlikely ways.

For the refined

If you are seeking the ultimate Sunday roast experience in Cambridge, then Margaret’s is unequivocally the place to go. The experience begins the moment you step inside, where you are greeted by a service that offers a perfect balance of highly professional and attentive, yet genuinely warm, and friendly staff. The journey, from the abundance of fascinating and innovative starters to the final bite, is meticulously crafted with considerable thought put into every bite. The main roast is both inventive and technical, yet crucially retains the familiar, comforting warmth that a Sunday dinner demands. This sets it apart from other more sterile fine dining experiences, with both elegance and heart. This roast is not just a meal – it’s a culinary event that instantly secures a spot on my Cambridge Sunday roast list.

Thanks for reading.