Regular readers will know I have been a massive fan of Between Buns for a while now. Back when they were primarily a food van doing the rounds in places like Melbourn and Shepreth, I used to stalk their social media waiting for them to make a rare trip up towards Northstowe, just so I could get my fix. They absolutely blew me away back then, safely landing themselves a top spot on my Cambridgeshire burger league table.

Fast forward to today and they have transitioned from a humble food van into a permanent restaurant in Royston with an extended menu. They are still doing their signature smash burgers (of course) but they have also added Sunday roasts. Regular readers will know how seriously I take my Sunday roast league table, so I was incredibly excited to get down there and see what a burger joint’s take on a Sunday roast would look like.

The interior has a proper rustic, laid-back vibe with plenty of character. It is kitted out with chunky wooden clad walls, matching heavy timber benches, and solid industrial-style tables that give it a warm, welcoming feel. Taking pride of place on the back wall is a big, sleek black Between Buns logo that lets you know exactly where you are. It’s clean, simple, unpretentious, and feels like the perfect spot to sit down and tackle a heavy meal.

Watch my Between Buns experience on Instagram here!

The Smoked Brisket Burger

I started things off with The Smoked Brisket burger. This beast consists of two 3oz smashed beef chuck patties, American cheese, mozzarella, smoked maple and bourbon beef brisket, smoked onion mayo, and a generous lash of bourbon BBQ glaze.

The team at Between Buns have still absolutely nailed the skill on the grill. Beef chuck can be a tough cut if handled poorly, but here it is perfectly tender with that beautiful, satisfying outer crispiness that really punches through on the bite.

The choice to combine American cheese with mozzarella gives it an immensely gooey, decadent texture that really works. But the real star here is the smoked maple and bourbon beef brisket piled on top. It adds a deep, sticky sweetness and a rich smoky pork flavour that marries up with the savoury beef perfectly. It’s all held together in that same thick, spongy seeded bun that holds strong from start to finish, despite the burger being absolutely loaded. It is heavy, sticky, and completely out of this world.

Korean BBQ Gochujang Beef

Next up was the Korean BBQ Gochujang Beef burger. It comes loaded with gochujang mayo, American cheese, crispy onions, a vibrant Asian slaw, and a glossy Korean BBQ sauce.

I loved the contrast on this one. The gochujang mayo brings a beautiful, vivid colour to the burger, though it was slightly milder on the heat front than I had hoped. Because it doesn’t have the mozzarella, it is a much less messy eat than the brisket option and lacks that heavy sweetness too. Despite this, it had a much better crunch thanks to the slaw that some will no doubt prefer. Fundamentally, it is a big, juicy burger with everything you could want from a proper smash burger, but for my personal taste, I found myself preferring the smoked brisket burger.

Smoked & Braised Salt Beef Brisket Dinner

Just when I thought I was defeated, out came the absolute showstopper of the new menu: the Smoked & Braised Salt Beef Brisket dinner.

This isn’t just a meal; it’s a rustic, towering monument to comfort food. The plate arrives laden with beef dripping and goose fat roast potatoes, a large Yorkshire pudding, honey-roasted root vegetables, creamed savoy cabbage, cauliflower cheese, and a rich brisket dripping gravy.

I found the salt beef to be less succulent and juicy than your traditional beef Sunday roast. The portions were large and the meat itself was soft and tender, though it almost crumbled apart rather than being thick and juicy. It was lighter, less heavy, and lacked that punchy beef flavour you typically get with a roast, but it was completely invigorated by the generous helping of brisket dripping gravy. Not only did this work but offered an entirely new experience for a Sunday roast.

Roastie Perfection

The roasties were incredible, serving up a thick, crispy skin with a soft, fluffy centre. They were absolutely brilliant, especially with that gorgeous brisket gravy.

The root vegetables were cut into large chunks that turned out nice and soft, glazed in a honey that gave them an exciting sweetness to cut through the savoury dish.

The Yorkshire pudding was well executed, soft and slightly crispy on the outside. It wasn’t huge but by no means small, something I was grateful for, as though I love a big Yorkshire pudding, some can be so obscene that they take up the whole plate. The cauliflower cheese was absolutely beautiful – rich, creamy, and had a bold, punchy flavour with an ample portion. Just look at that melted cheese! 😍

Between pints

To wash all this down, I ordered their own-brand house lager. It sits at a very manageable 4% and is an absolute lifesaver during a heatwave. I couldn’t find much information online about where it’s sourced from and the staff were unable to answer my question regarding this, but it is light, crisp, and smooth; perfectly suited for the rather rich and heavy menu they serve.

Final Thoughts

Between Buns have shown that they aren’t just a one-trick pony. They have proved they can do other food incredibly well, including a Sunday roast – a dish that people are probably the most picky about, yet I found it hard to fault. This goes to show the true talent of the team here and leaves me hoping for a Cambridge location to open in the future.

Prices are fair for the sheer volume and quality of food you get. Royston is lucky to have them, and it is definitely worth the drive across the border for people who not only love a good burger, but also anyone who has Sunday roast fatigue and is looking for something a little different.

Get your arse down here asap!

Thanks for reading.