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Welcome back to episode 4 of Cambridge Food Hunter, where we seek the biggest and best dishes in the city!

Finding a good pub can be hard but also finding one that can do a solid roast dinner can be even harder. I rarely review roasts as people are incredibly passionate about what constitutes the perfect one. It is a divisive issue and entirely subjective, with some people believing that missing one simple ingredient can ruin the entire experience (or having the wrong ingredients included will also do the same). But once in a while, a pub or restaurant will do one in such a way that it’s hard for me to resist and the Cambridge Brewhouse may have just released a new Sunday roast that will not only satisfy your afternoon but also give you an experience to remember.

It’s a BEAST!

The Cambridge Brewhouse has decided to go big…Very big, by offering a sharing platter!  It comes with the choice of a whole chicken, a ham, a rack of lamb, or a “Thor’s Hammer” beef brisket.

The temptation of the beef joint was simply too much once I learned that it was a staggering 2.5 kg (or approximately 88 oz) making it an absolute behemoth of a dish.  The platter is served with the intention of being served between 4 and 6 people, so I knew that I was going to need a crack team behind me to tackle this. I brought Cambridge Foodies moderator Gerry and my lumbering 6’3 bottomless pit of a son with me to back me up.

Was three people going to be enough? Only time would tell…

The dish comes with all the trimmings, including crushed swede, spring greens, roasted potatoes, carrots, parsnips, and a large Yorkshire pudding each. The beef itself is served on the bone (with the marrow still inside) which towers over everything else on the platter with a commanding authority.

The Beef

The joint was superbly cooked. It had a crispy skin which had a beautifully deep brown colour which was followed by a light pinking in the middle. You could tell it was a well sourced cut of beef, as it was tender with very little gristle or unnecessary fat. We were given steak knives but most of it could be pulled off the bone with our fork with minimal effort. I could tell that real time and love had clearly been put into crafting this delicious piece of artwork.

The Gravy

The joint’s beautiful flavour was further elevated by a light gravy that complimented everything it touched. Its subtle flavour allowed the individual taste of each ingredient to shine through, without being drowned out with an oppressive richness. The gravy is crafted from Dark Matter, one of the Cambridge Brew House’s signature beers, brewed in their on-site micro-brewery. This wheat beer, boasts notes of coffee and dark chocolate, I must admit, the gravy was delicious, and even though I failed to taste the coffee and dark chocolate notes coming through, it combined none the less into a balanced and surprisingly complex flavour that really worked. 

Each guest was given their own individual jug of gravy – a simple yet brilliant touch that instantly banished my fear of the dreaded “stingy drizzle”. This is a common issue where many roast dinners fall flat and having the freedom to pour gravy without a second thought proved to be a surprisingly liberating experience. It was evident that the team at The Cambridge Brew House understand the key fundamentals of what constitutes a great roast dinner.

The Veg

The maple roasted carrots and parsnips were prepared exactly how I like them, by retaining that delightful crunch without any hint of mushiness. If I had to be cruel, I would say that they were a little dry but this was mitigated by the copious amounts of the foresaid gravy at hand. The subtle sweetness from the maple really made them pop in an otherwise savoury dish that I know people will appreciate.

The swede was crushed rather than mashed, resulting in soft chunks floating around. This gave the swede exciting bursts of flavour and a more diverse texture throughout. This stood out as my favourite of all the trimmings, thanks to its smooth creaminess and gentle sweetness harmonising beautifully with the other ingredients on the plate.

The beef dripping roast potatoes were plentiful and substantial with a wonderfully fluffy base that was ideal for soaking up gravy. While the skin was perfectly acceptable, a touch more crispiness would have elevated them to absolute perfection, though I put some of this softness down to the beef dripping that added a meaty flavour.

Each guest gets a large Yorkshire pudding each with the option to request more at no extra cost. I couldn’t fault mine, which had a wonderfully crispy exterior and a soft innards.

Victory was ours!

This monster of a platter was just about conquerable between the three of us seasoned foodie veterans. It took everything we had, including a short break to come back to it but we just about managed. Despite our near defeat, we emerged victorious, having polished off what must be one of Cambridge’s most formidable platters!

I confidently estimate that it could comfortably serve six average appetites without any trouble.

The ultimate sharing platter

Thor’s Hammer is so much more than an immensely sized roast; it is a well-balanced and thoughtfully executed meal that manages to be both impressively indulgent and humble at the same time. It takes the grandeur but remembers what makes a perfect roast so special in the first place. For example, making sure everyone has enough gravy.

I love the communal aspect of the dish, which encourages communication and sharing between friends and family. Each component of the meal, from the crisp vegetables to the thoughtfully crushed swede, speaks to the quality of the ingredients and the care taken in its preparation.

At £160, the beef platter sits at the premium end of the spectrum, with the ham priced at £120 and the chicken offering a more budget-friendly £70.

Focusing on the beef, sharing this impressive platter among six results in a £27 per-person cost, rising to £40 for a party of four. But considering that dividing this substantial beef offering between just four people would likely surpass even the heartiest Cambridge roast dinner portions, we will stick to the £27 price tag for 6. But given that most local roast dinners fall within the £15-£21 range, does the £27 price point for a portion of this platter represent good value? While the subjective nature of roast dinner value remains, the promise of individual gravy jugs and a (within reason) endless supply of Yorkshire puddings certainly adds to the equation.

But for me, I’ll definitely be back for the whole chicken or ham…if I ever eat again 🤣