I recently made the trek out to the new Hickory’s Smokehouse on the edge of Peterborough to see if it lived up to the hype. They are a large chain who specialise in slow-smoked barbeque meats with dozens of locations across the UK. They initially started up north and have slowly moved their way down through the Midlands to the south. There is also a new one coming soon at the Milton Arms, replacing the Hungry Horse, so I was glad to visit to get a taste of what’s coming to Cambridge.

Let’s be honest: England has historically lagged behind the States when it comes to proper barbecue…by a looooong way. In fact, in Cambridgeshire the options are virtually non-existent. I brought along a friend for his expert opinion. He has spent years barbequing and smoking but also managed to travel the Deep South several times, sampling the best places the USA has to offer.

Getting there is easy enough, with plenty of parking. If you are coming from Cambridge it is a straightforward drive down the A14 and A1(M).

Once inside, the restaurant really leans into its deep South theme, celebrating the culture of barbecue with pictures of legends mounted on the walls. Many of these snaps likely taken during one of their 24 research trips across the States in preparation for setting up Hickory’s Smokehouse. Since starting back in 2009, the team has visited over 70 towns and cities to soak up the real deal and take notes. It is encouraging to see that this isn’t just some cheap imitation but that they have clearly put the work in to get the details right.

Proper Smokers & Hickory Wood

The team at Hickory’s Smokehouse have even gone as far as to import their smokers directly from Tennessee and Memphis to keep things authentic. They burn genuine hickory wood, which is the heartbeat of their smokehouse and gives the meat that classic, deep flavour profile. You can see the effort they’ve put in, especially with the massive slabs of brisket sitting on display at the bar. They smoke them “low ‘n’ slow” for 16 hours, and you can watch the pitmasters carving them up right in front of you.

For The Families

Before you start thinking that this is just a place for hairy blokes like me who love meat, then think again. As Hickory’s have clearly thought about how to keep the little ones happy too, which makes this a perfect family place to take the kids. There’s a popcorn machine that’s constantly on the go offering some of the best beef popcorn I have ever tried (yes, even better than Flat Irons!). They even have a dedicated cinema room where children can settle down to watch a film. When I poked my head inside there were a handful of kids watching Cars 2. This gives parents a much-needed few minutes of peace while they enjoy their dinner. There is also a play structure out the back and a sweet unit. If you and the wife can’t get a babysitter for the evening then this is the next best thing. Hickory’s is going straight into my Best Places For Children list.

Bourbon Masterclasses

If you like a decent bourbon then you are in for a right treat. This is a million miles away from that Jack Daniels cobblers with real knowledge and purpose going behind each bottle available. As a big scotch drinker myself I knew how important this is to get this right. I was lucky enough to chat with a staff member who was genuinely passionate about their collection and took genuine delight in sharing the rich history of each bottle.

We went through a tasting of Larceny, Rittenhouse, and Evan Williams; the Larceny was a great discovery for me. It is warm and complex, exactly what you’d want to sip by a fire on a cold night. They even offered food pairing – including marshmallow and Oreo – which was not only fun and quirky but genuinely enhanced the experience in a truly American way.

The Starters

We kicked things off with the Frickles after being recommended them by the staff team. These feisty little numbers are made from juicy pickles that are deep-fried in a crispy Cajun spiced batter, served with a pot of South Carolina barbecue sauce. The Carolina BBQ sauce added a creaminess that worked well with the spicy saltiness of the pickle. As someone who had never tried them before, I couldn’t put them down and absolutely loved the crunch.

My guest ordered the Cheesy Chilli Fries but he thought the name was a bit confusing; He expected chilli con carne but they came topped with melted cheese with a variety of fresh chillies instead. The liberal use of cheese results in soggy chips which was unfortunate but at least they looked impressive by eye.

On the other hand, the Maple Buttered Corn Bread was a hit. It arrived looking like a freshly baked muffin but had a strong saltiness that cut through a delicate sweetness from the maple. This was a first for me and I couldn’t stop picking at it. It proved that Hickory’s is a great place to visit if you are looking to try new food.

The Platter

For the main event, we went for the Smokehouse Platter for two. If you head down to Hickory’s then this is something you simply must try as it is a full showcase of everything Hickory’s Smokehouse has to offer.
It comes with…

★ Texas-style, well marbled, grain-fed beef brisket

★ Memphis-style BBQ glazed pork baby back ribs

★ Cowboy buttered smoked chicken legs

★ Dressed 14 hr hand-pulled pork

★ Tennessee bourbon gravy glazed beef baby back ribs

★ Bourbon glazed smoked chicken wings

★ Smoked pork, jalapeño & cheese sausage

★ Pot of pit beans, skin-on fries or house salad, house slaw, pickles & Tennessee bourbon gravy.

The two smoked pork sausages were the stars of the show. These utter monsters are soft, slightly smoky, filled with jalapeño and cheese. Though I didn’t get much jalapeno heat or flavour from them, they were absolutely delicious none the less. I loved the way they completely dominated the platter and paved the way for dozens of crap ‘big sausage’ jokes for all the dads out there.

On the other hand, the Memphis-style pork ribs were a bit of a letdown. I’ll admit, my expectations were high – I was really hoping for that “melt-in-the-mouth” experience where the meat just collapses off the bone the second you touch it. Instead, they were a little tougher than I expected (though definitely not tough), which was a shame because I enjoyed the subtle smoky sweetness from the spiced rub but they just weren’t what I was expecting.

Thankfully, the rest of the board made up for it. The Cowboy chicken leg was a win for me. It is impossibly soft, juicy, and packed with an incredible smoked chicken flavour. It was bloody huge and I struggled to finish it so took it home for lunch the next day.

Then there was the Texas-style beef brisket which was one of the highlights of the meal. Cooked Texas-style with no sauce to allow the grain-fed, well-marbled meat to stand out and shine. It looks rather plain by eye but was impossibly soft and unashamedly fatty.

​Finally, the Tennessee bourbon gravy glazed beef baby back ribs allowed me to go full caveman, gnawing the meat right off the bone. This was a meal for kings!

American Customer Service (without the huge tip)

The staff are incredible, bringing that high-energy, infectious enthusiasm you usually only find back in the States. And no wonder, given that the team is taken on research trips across the deep South to really live and breathe the whole barbecue experience first hand. A 7.5% service charge is provided with a paragraph at the bottom of your receipt promising it goes to the front line workers. Though I generally disapprove of service charges, I found 7.5% to be a lot less presumptuous than some of the other whopping 12.5% I have seen that are slowly becoming the norm. Since the service was so utterly exceptional, I had no issue paying it, especially when you consider the utterly bonkers tipping culture in the US. It almost felt like the best of both worlds. 

The Only Place To Go In Cambridgeshire For Serious BBQ

I had a total blast at Hickory’s Smokehouse; and while my guest and I agreed it doesn’t match the authentic barbecue you would find in the US, it is still head and shoulders above anything else in Cambridgeshire. If you are serious about barbecue, this is really the only proper option in the area. It is a refreshing change of pace and a place that has clearly done its homework, making it well worth the trip.

Bring on Cambridge!