“AD” – Why is this here?

Anyone living in Ely will tell you that the Sylhet Indian restaurant is an institution in the city. It has offered consistent Indian and Bangladeshi cuisine for decades and has been a favourite of mine for some time.

Lately, there has been a fair bit of confusion regarding the status of the restaurant, located on Market Street. After chatting with local residents, it is clear that rumours are flying – with some believing it has been replaced, others think it is now takeaway-only, and a few even feared it had closed for good.

Sylhet is still open and fully operational as usual.

The confusion stems largely from the opening of Bengal Brunch which now operates in the same restaurant while Sylhet is closed during the day time with an entirely separate menu.

This has resulted in a transformation of the traditional Indian interior into something more closely resembling a cafe. Now, it feels more casual, with a lighter environment and a minimalist, zen-like feel.

Disabled access

I have often credited The Sylhet for their disabled friendly toilet. This is something you simply wouldn’t expect in a small and historic building like this and it deserves credit (read my review of The Sylhet back in 2015 where I first brought this up).

Menu

Since the change, the menu has become smaller and more streamlined, offering a reassurance that the chefs are focused on perfecting a select number of dishes rather than spreading themselves too thinly. While prices remain competitive, beer is no longer available on draught. The Sylhet no longer holds an alcohol licence, which may disappoint those who enjoy a freshly poured pint, but it does mean you can Bring Your Own Bottle (BYOB). This gives you more choice on what you drink and saves a small fortune (given today’s prices).

Starters

Our meal commenced with the Tandoori Platter, featuring what I call the three amigos of the tandoori oven: chicken tikka, lamb tikka, and seekh kebab. The presentation was beautiful, boasting a lovely golden-brown colour. Both my guest and I found the meats to be succulent, juicy, and full of life.

The lamb tikka stood out between the three. It was so impossibly soft that we invited over one of the proprietors, Zahid, to explain the magic behind it.  He revealed that the meat is marinated in yoghurt and trimmed to remove the tougher exterior, leaving only the most tender cuts. While this results in a loss for him by not using all the lamb he paid for, this allows the meat to soak up far more marinade. The results speak for themselves, with even my guest, who usually avoids lamb, devouring it entirely.

The best Pani Puri in town

Pani puri are crispy, hollow dough balls filled with seasoned potato, chickpeas, onions, and tamarind sauce, served with a tangy broth. I have said before that the Bengal Brunch’s take on this popular street food is the best in Cambridgeshire. This is partly due to a noticeably thicker shell, which provides a more robust and satisfying crunch and allows it to be generously loaded. It is a fun and refreshing dish that offers a genuine explosion of flavour.

Specials menu

The Handi Ghosht Beef was my favourite dish of the evening. The beef was served in large chunks that melted away instantly. It provided a warm, spicy glow and a punchy flavour perfect for the cold winter months. I cannot recommend it enough.

The North Indian Garlic Chilli has a rich flavour with hints of garlic and ginger that really shine through. It is a dish for the true garlic fiends, featuring a generous amount of sliced garlic cloves that seemed to have been fried until golden brown, giving the sauce a deep, toasted aroma.

What I really appreciated was the layered heat. It used a combination of dried red chillies for a smoky warmth and fresh green chillies to provide that sharp, immediate kick. The sauce was thick and concentrated, clinging to the meat. It felt a bit more rustic and savoury than some of the tangier versions I have had elsewhere, and it is a bold, aromatic choice that really lingers on the taste buds.

The Classics

For those of you who know what you like and are happy to keep it that way, the classics menu is still alive and kicking. We opted for a vindaloo and a chicken tikka masala – two absolute staples that always serve as a great benchmark for a kitchen’s quality. Starting the new year with these familiar dishes proved to be the perfect choice.

The vindaloo arrived with generous cuts of succulent chicken and soft chunks of potato, all submerged in a rich, fiery sauce. While the flavour was spot on, I would have personally preferred it to be a touch more aggressive on the heat. When I go for a vindaloo, I am usually looking for that punchy fiery kick. However, the quality of the curry was undeniable.

The chicken tikka masala was equally impressive, featuring large, tender chunks of tikka-marinated chicken. It had that signature bold sweetness and that creamy texture that you want from a proper masala. I also loved the vibrant, bright colours of the dish, which brought a bit of life and flair to the table.

A 2 in 1 gem of Ely

Despite all the local confusion over what is actually going on with The Sylhet, the heart of the restaurant hasn’t changed. The new look might be a bit of a departure from the traditional style since merging with Bengal Brunch but it works surprisingly well, while also giving a calming zenness that sets it apart from other spots in town.

At the end of the day, it doesn’t really matter whether you are there for the new, refined additions on the menu or there for the reliable classics that have been on the menu for years – the quality is still there. The move to BYOB is actually a bit of a win in my book; it keeps the cost down and means you can bring exactly what you want to drink. It is a real relief to see that this Market Street institution isn’t going anywhere, it is just evolving. If you have been hesitant because of the rumours, I would suggest you head over and see for yourself.