“ad” – Why is this here?
It has been exactly one year since I first stepped into Malabarikh Atelier on Forehill. When they opened, I described them as an exciting arrival in Ely, bringing something entirely different from the typical Bangladeshi-style Indian restaurants we all know and love, with their traditional Indian cuisine.
Twelve months on, it is time to check back in. Last year, while I enjoyed the food, I had a lingering worry that their large menu was spread too thinly. Though some restaurants can pull this off, it can often lead to mistakes or an inconsistency in the quality – something that I did occasionally hear about this restaurant from members of the Cambridge Foodies community.
Despite this, I have always had a great meal here. I was keen to revisit and see what they were doing now, especially since they have had a whole year to find their feet. I was delighted (and slightly relieved) to hear that the team have streamlined their menu, choosing to focus on doing less, but doing it significantly better with a brand new chef.
Cocktails
I had absolutely no idea that they did cocktails here. It was a pleasant surprise, so I decided to celebrate with an Old Fashioned. Being an Indian restaurant, this was no ordinary take on the classic, but had an interesting Indian twist. By swapping the usual sugar for Indian jaggery, it added a deep, earthy sweetness with a hint of caramel that feels far more exotic than your standard version. It is a thoughtful touch that adds a piece of their own identity to a classic – and it truly worked.
The Starters
The menu at Malabarikh Atelier offers a diverse exploration of South Indian cuisine, complemented by a handful of North Indian dishes. If you are bringing along someone who is not quite ready to step away from the more traditional, Bangladeshi-style curry, the kitchen can still cater to them perfectly well with the classics. Expect a wide variety of options, ranging from fragrant biriyanis to fresh seafood, plenty of vegetarian and vegan choices, and some signature chef’s specials. I was also pleased to see a clear index on the menu regarding allergies, and the pricing throughout feels consistently fair.
Konkan Crab Fry
The Konkan Crab Fry is a charming, unusual dish that is worth ordering simply as a conversation starter at the table. The soft-shell crab is deep-fried to a crisp, and when paired with the tangy tomato compote, the flavours really come to life. While it is a fun, colourful plate, I did find the batter a bit too thick, which occasionally masked the delicate flavour of the crab and lacked that satisfying, light crunch you hope for in a dish like this. Still, it is a creative addition that is well worth ordering for the experience alone.
Venad Paal Konju
The tiger prawns are grilled in coconut milk with curry leaves and black pepper. They are, quite simply, exceptional. The prawns themselves were big, meaty, and cooked to perfection, offering a juicy texture that was a joy to devour. The black pepper provided a subtle, lingering heat that perfectly complemented the natural sweetness of the coconut sauce without ever overpowering it. This is a must-order dish that I highly recommend.
Masala Dosa
I couldn’t help but revisit the classic Masala Dosa. It arrived perfectly thin and crispy, with the fermented batter providing that signature, slightly sour tang that makes a dosa great. It is honestly one of my absolute favourite Indian dishes, and this version certainly did not disappoint. The kitchen was not shy with the filling, either, providing a genuinely generous portion of spiced mashed potatoes that were perfectly seasoned and packed with flavour.
Golden Gol Gappe
Golden Gol Gappa, or ‘Pani Puri’ as it is now commonly known, is a popular Indian street food perfect as a refreshing snack on a hot day. It has been a favourite of mine for years and is ideal for sharing. They are made from circular, crispy dough balls (Puri) served with a mixture of colourful, flavoured waters (Pani) that you pour into the shell and eat whole for an immediate explosion of texture and flavour.
I thought this was an excellent take on the dish; the flavoured water was noticeably thicker than at other Indian restaurants I have tried, making it feel more like a sauce. I also enjoyed the variety of flavours included, which made for a refreshing and interesting change.
The Mains
This is where traditional Indian cuisine really differentiates itself from the classic curry houses. Instead of the usual heavily spiced gravies, the kitchen here leans into vibrant, zesty, and fruity flavour profiles, a heavy emphasis on fresh seafood, and consistently colourful presentation. It is the perfect place to visit on a hot day, or even for a bit of much-needed cheer when the weather turns grey.
The Kuttanad Duck Mappas was a lesson in how slow-cooked duck should be done. The meat was perfectly tender with a thick, crispy skin, all swimming in a rich, velvety coconut sauce. The coriander and spices really tamed the sweetness, adding a complex depth that firmly anchored the dish in its Indian identity rather than drifting toward a Thai flavour profile. It was such a hit that I brought some home for my wife, who simply couldn’t get enough of it. Top marks!
Lobster Moilee
If there is one dish I recommend you try from this menu, it is the Lobster Moilee. It is lobster tail, stewed in a delicate moilee sauce and served with boiled rice. Both the lobster and the coconut based sauce added a light and colourful flavour that allowed the quality of the lobster to take centre stage. I was impressed with the lobster portion too, as I have had entire half lobsters in the past that were smaller than this. This is a classic example of how far they have come since their opening days.
A year on
If my first visit was about the excitement of a new arrival on the Ely food scene, then this visit was about confirming their longevity. After hearing some inconsistent reviews, I was relieved and delighted to see Malabarikh Atelier still cooking up a storm with exciting new dishes, stunning presentation, and fresh new flavours.
It is not just another Indian restaurant; they are consistently pushing the boundaries of regional South Indian cuisine with dishes that you simply cannot find elsewhere in Ely. In fact, you would have to trek all the way into Cambridge for anything like it.
Thanks for reading.
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