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The Gonville Kitchen is back with a new menu, offering a slight change of pace from the usual, offering a vibrant selection of British and Mediterranean cuisine.

I had not visited The Gonville in a while, so I was keen to see how the restaurant was fairing. I was looking forward to dining in their new(ish) terrace again, which offers pleasant views of Parker’s Piece. I have never failed to have a good meal in the past and I was expecting more of the same tonight.

Their terrace is exactly as I remember it. Still the same spacious contemporary design with a casual style that is balanced enough for any occasion. I couldn’t enjoy the view of Parkers Piece, as it was dark but it was nice to enjoy the lights.

There was a useful little footstool by the table that was great for putting things like my wallet, phone, and keys on, saving me from taking up valuable table space. It is little things like this that make all the difference, especially when you are a person like me who also brings lots of equipment with him.

Starters

Looking at the menu, prices were about mid-range. Unsurprisingly there was a selection of British classics and Mediterranean dishes, along with a selection of steaks. The menu isn’t huge, but there is a varied and interesting range of dishes. It was good to see their emphasis on locally sourced and seasonal ingredients too.

I was intrigued by the Tzatziki chicken skewers and what a fancy hotel take on it would be. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that it was utterly superb! They are served as a pair, along with a green side sauce that I couldn’t quite put my finger on. The chicken was big, juicy, and oh-so satisfying to sink your teeth into. Top marks!

Seasonal risotto

The seasonal risotto was described by my guest as “delicious, with lots of flavour”. It was a generous portion for a starter with a vibrant colour from the red pepper that also gave it “quite a spicy punch”. An interesting take indeed for a risotto!

Mains

Sirloin steak

I opted for a beautifully presented 35 day dry-aged sirloin steak (8oz). I requested it medium rare and it was honoured perfectly with a beautiful pink colour. It was served pre sliced into pieces that came to about two mouthfuls. The dry-aging process gave the steak a noticeably richer taste which was followed by a tenderness that melted in my mouth.

The steak was served along with a tiny garnish of salad, made from shaved truffle, pea shoot, parmesan and tomato. I wasn’t expecting to enjoy it as much as I did and would love an option to try a larger portion of this in some way (perhaps as a side salad?), as it was so fresh and crunchy with a complex flavour.

Beer battered cod

The Cambridge beer battered cod looked compact and stylish, as you would expect from a restaurant like this. My initial thought was that the triple cooked chips were a measly portion but you could see that they were incredibly thick and chunky. My guest had no complaints about the portion size, so it was likely bigger than it looked. She said they were very tasty and I must admit, if there were more of them available, I might have tried to steal one off her plate 🤣

I’m not sure what beer the cod was battered in but I noticed the largest BrewBoard beer tap selection I have seen in Cambridge. Either way, the cod had an incredibly thick and crunchy batter, in fact, it was one of the best cod batters I have had. The portion size was unmistakably small but I couldn’t complain about the execution, as the fish was sublime.

Sides

As the steak doesn’t come with anything else included in the price, I ordered myself some Koffman fries and tender stem broccoli

The broccoli was striking by eye, served with a confit lemon and smoked tomato sauce that brought so much colour to the plate (and table).

The Koffman fries weren’t much to look at but the portion was terrific. The chips came with truffle and Manchego (a type of sheep’s milk cheese) that really added a depth of flavour that I wasn’t expecting. I think they were double (maybe triple) cooked, making them very crispy.

Cheese board and desserts

After a string of disappointing cheese boards over the years, I generally avoid them entirely (unless I am at home). This, however, has changed since my visit to The Pantry in Newmarket last week, which has rekindled my love (and trust) so I decided to give them another chance.

There were only two cheeses but they were quite large wedges. One was a red Leicester colour but it had the texture and the flavour of a blue cheese. It had a light pungent taste on the bite with a very delicate and mild aftertaste, that really worked for me. The other was quite similar in a lot of ways, but had the texture and colour of an applewood or perhaps a mild cheddar.

The crackers were modest and inoffensive, and came served with a pot of mango chutney. It will shock you to learn that I’m a big fan of mango chutney and I thought this was a brilliant addition to the board as it added a beautiful sweetness. The chutney was also very fresh with big juicy chunks that spread across the cracker like a dream.

Lemon meringue with lemon sorbet

My guest had the lemon meringue tart with lemon sorbet. She said that the lemon sorbet had a sharp taste and was a little overpowering for her but had a punchy taste that she enjoyed. The presentation was decent but overall it felt a little ordinary.

The service

The service was painfully slow. I generally find the service at restaurants to be quicker on Tuesday night (as the restaurant is quieter) but we were there for nearly two and a half hours in total. The restaurant wasn’t even half full, yet the gap between courses really dragged. Some of this can be credited to their commitment to quality with the waitress explaining to me at one point that the chef was not happy with the quality of my steak, so he started again. This reassuring sign of quality is a testament to the high standard that the Gonville Kitchen and I would definitely prefer a steak well prepared than a rushed one, but this didn’t explain the drag with the other courses. Either way, I appreciated the communication and all the food this evening was excellent. I also couldn’t fault the waitress herself, who was excellent all evening.

A refreshing change

The Gonville Kitchen has once again proven to me why it is one of my favourite formal dining spots in Cambridge. The new menu offers dishes that are comfortable and  familiar, while giving you the choice to try dishes that you wouldn’t expect from a restaurant like this.

I was particularly fond of the chicken skewers and the broccoli that stood out from the highlights of the evening. The steak was incredible but they even managed to make traditional classics like the fish and chips exciting and different. I am glad the Gonville has been keeping fresh in a way that doesn’t move too far away from what makes the restaurants great.

Thanks for reading.