Ely has always been home to fantastic Bangladeshi-style Indian restaurants, offering all the classic curries we know and love. But what’s been missing is an authentic, traditional Indian experience…

…My prayers were answered last week when Malabarikh Atelier opened its doors offering exactly that.

Located on Forehill in the old Cromwell bar, Malabarikh Atelier is Ely’s first authentic South Indian restaurant, bringing an entirely new cuisine to our already booming foodie scene.

As the name suggests – with “Malabar” referring to a region in South India and “Atelier” meaning  “workshop” in French – I was genuinely intrigued as to how this would translate on my dinner plate.

The Restaurant & Menu

Inside, the restaurant immediately impressed me with its spacious layout. It is modern and stylish with the entrance area offering barstools for casual dining and a more formal setting with booths and tables in the back. You might expect a brand new restaurant to feel unfinished but Malabarikh Atelier is anything but. The team has swiftly added warmth and character with vibrant orange and yellow tones complimented by a rather proud hand-painted depiction of Ely Cathedral. It is clear they have put thought and consideration into making the space feel authentic while also celebrating the local community at the same time. 

The menu boasts a vast array of traditional Indian dishes, including several of my personal favorites – the masala dosa, dum biryani, and daal makhani. While draft beer isn’t available at the time of writing, I have been promised that it is coming soon.

Prices are highly competitive, with some main courses starting at just £7.99, and as expected from a traditional Indian restaurant, vegan and vegetarian options are plentiful.

Masala Dosa

As previously stated, the masala dosa is one of my favourite dishes, so it was almost impossible to resist. This is essentially a dosa (a large wrap made from rice and black lentils) that is stuffed with a lightly spiced mashed potato and served with a selection of three different sauces for dipping. It is often a messy affair to eat but also a lot of fun and is great to share. This particular rendition was a strong contender when compared to others I have had, with the dosa being substantial and the delicately flavored mash inside a joy to scoop and dip.

Dum Biryani

This dum biryani is made from kaima rice and layered with chicken on the bone, which is slow-cooked over a low heat. It is then presented with a selection of masalas (sauces) and a layered naan on top to seal in the heat and flavours. Unlike Bangladeshi-style biryanis, you won’t find a side curry here; instead, the dish prides itself on offering incredibly juicy rice which is created from the rich chicken juices that meld together during cooking. While it might appear dry at first glance, the opposite is true.

The chicken is served in generous chunks and comes with a thick, crispy skin that perfectly compliments the rice that has been infused with its rich meaty flavours. While I wouldn’t say the flavour was as deeply prevalent as the dum biryanis from Namaste or The Brook in Cambridge, it was a commendable rendition and incredibly exciting to have this dish now available in Ely!

Daal Makhani & Naan

Popularised by Dishoom’s infamous black daal, the daal makhani is one of my favourite dishes. This thick buttery dish is made from black lentils and it’s ideal for dipping with naan.

I ordered a butter naan especially for this purpose. It was presented beautifully on a ceramic plate, cut into four individual slices, and liberally drenched in oil. This drenching rendered the naan both soft and crispy at the same time – a delightful paradox that I know will divide opinions but somehow just worked. Crucially, it maintained its structure perfectly while dipping, fulfilling its purpose.

Paneer Mango Curry

Our final dish was the paneer mango curry. Fellow foodie and chef, Matty (Ely Foodies), commented on the difficulty of preparing paneer but praised their execution. I had to agree, as the cheese was incredibly soft, juicy, and cut into thick cubes. This versatile dish also worked wonderfully with the butter naan as well as rice. Both it and the daal makhani are fantastic vegetarian choices.

Mango Lassi

As there was no beer on tap for the time being (though bottles are available), I decided to order myself a mango lassi. This thick and creamy yoghurt-based drink is ideal for quenching a spicy curry but is refreshing and delicious in its own right. I highly recommend you give this one a try if you have never had one before.

Another feather in Ely’s cap

In the end I didn’t spot a French connection but Malabarikh Atelier is definitely an excellent addition to Ely, offering a wide selection of exciting and delicious dishes from across the South Indian landscape. In fact, I could return multiple times and still not have sampled everything I wanted from their menu tonight, giving me a great reason to visit again and again.

I was genuinely impressed with their execution, especially considering how vast the menu is, with many restaurants often spreading themselves too thinly and quality suffering as a result. I saw none of that here tonight though I do worry this large menu will be hard to maintain consistently.

With a polite and friendly service, this restaurant already possesses an undeniable atmosphere, feeling instantly like a well-established city favourite.

If you love traditional Indian cuisine or just fancy something new and exciting then this is a must for any Ely local!

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