“ad” – Why is this here?

The Burleigh Arms holds a special place in my heart and it is a venue that has truly captured the imagination of the Cambridge Foodies community over the past few years. As I sat down for my fourth review of this historic spot, I couldn’t help but reminisce about the journey we have been on together. It marks the end of an era with the departure of Kareem Roberts – a chef who brought such bold, personal character to the kitchen – and the beginning of a fresh start under new Head Chef, Sam Sturman. I was genuinely excited to see how Sam would take the reins and make this beloved local gem his own.

Sturman brings a serious culinary pedigree with him, having mastered his craft at Michelin-starred institutions, including Midsummer House, Pollen Street Social, and The Raby Hunt. He is now utilising those skills to create what I call “refined pub grub”. It is a mid-ranged price point that reflects the quality ingredients and sourcing that Sturman prioritises.

Inside, the pub perfectly balances its historic character, dating back to the 1820s, with a warm and welcoming atmosphere. The walls are finished in a striking black, adorned with mirrors and framed artwork that showcases a mixture of mediums celebrating our fair city. The team here are high energy, friendly, and attentive, possessing a fantastic knowledge of not only the food menu but the cocktails, too.

Cocktails

Speaking of cocktails; The Burleigh Arms has always had a knack for these, mostly credited to the owner and mixologist Tom Arnold, who has really knocked it out of the park with his new ‘Fellowship of Flavour’ menu. It is essentially a love letter to Cambridge, where every drink pulls you into a bit of local history. It’s not just about the booze; it’s about the creativity and the story behind every glass. If you’re a cocktail fan, this is an absolute must-visit. Whether you’re diving into the ‘Reality Checkpoint,’ the ‘DNA,’ or the ‘When the Apple Dropped,’ you’re getting a perfect balance of skill and local lore.

Starters

Before diving into the dishes, it is worth taking a look at the menu as a whole. You will notice that Sam Sturman’s offers a set menu, an à la carte selection, and a dedicated Sunday roast menu. While the dishes look familiar and resemble classic pub fare, there is a clear distinction here; this is sophisticated, elevated cooking that looks much more at home in a fine dining restaurant than your average local spot. Hence the term “refined pub grub.”

Tear & Share

The warm wild garlic milk bread tear & share with a 14-month aged parmesan cream is an absolute must and great for sharing. It is a bit of messy fun that shows that refined dining isn’t limited to fancy knife and fork work. The bread had a lovely crispy skin soaked in garlic milk with an impossibly soft middle that made it the perfect dish to start with. I know many people often worry about leaving hungry with fine dining, but this makes sure that you have a full belly at the end.

The 14-month aged parmesan cream was an absolute dream. Scooping it onto the bread while it was still warm allowed it to melt while holding it, adding a gooey texture to a deep, salty, and complex cheesy flavour. It was the perfect partner to the bread, creating a start to the meal that felt indulgent yet surprisingly grounded.

Parmesan Gougère

The parmesan gougère was another favourite, and I couldn’t help but be reminded of the version I had at Restaurant 22 a few months back. This bite-sized snack was a crunchy little round that gave way to a gooey, creamy centre with a bold, salty punch, while the truffles added a remarkable depth of flavour. Despite being similar dishes, each had its own distinct personality, though I did find myself making the inevitable comparison. While it didn’t quite edge out the one from Restaurant 22, the difference was negligible, and when you consider it likely costs half the price, it really highlights how the Burleigh Arms offers a serious bargain. The cost-to-value ratio here is simply fantastic.

Suckling Pig Taco

The suckling pig taco might just be the cutest little dish I have ever seen. I’ll admit, I was expecting it to be way bigger, but the presentation was impressive and this bite-sized piece had a commanding flavour that really took me by surprise, credited to both the pork and the salsa matcha. This isn’t a dish to fill you up, but to experience a new invigorating flavour.

Orkney scallop crudo

The hand-dived Orkney scallop crudo, nashi pear, and jalapeño felt like a bold request at £18, especially given the portion size. However, the moment I took a bite, it all made sense. Sam had previously explained to me the lengths he goes to for his ingredients, and while I’ve been a bit sceptical about whether that level of effort really translates to the plate, it clicked here. The complexity was incredible; zesty, tangy, and spicy notes all had my taste buds dancing in a way I haven’t experienced in quite some time. I actually found myself smacking my lips in deep concentration, genuinely appreciating every single note. Yes, it’s a starter priced more like an average main course, but I honestly can’t remember the last time a dish had me enjoying the ride quite like this.

The Main Event

The salt-aged cutlet of lamb, served with a lamb shank shepherd’s pie, green & yellow courgette, and mint, was a thing of absolute beauty. The lamb itself was impeccably cooked – soft and tender, with a beautifully caramelised skin that added a divine crispiness and sweetness. It wasn’t afraid to be fatty, which honestly just meant it was packed with so much depth and flavour.

But the real highlight was the lamb shank shepherd’s pie served alongside it. It was, quite simply, absolute perfection. Served in a tidy little portion, the lamb was beautifully pulled and incredibly juicy, with tiny, finely-cut carrots and vegetables folded throughout to give it a lovely texture. It’s exactly the kind of elevated comfort food that makes this place so special.

The mint gravy was thin and served in a modest portion, but it was all the dish needed; the lamb was tender enough to stand on its own without being drowned out. The mint profile really stood out and present enough to cut through the richness without becoming overpowering – which really showcased Sam’s understanding of balance and his technical precision. The dish pulled off a difficult trick, remaining both familiar and refined at the same time – the ultimate elevated comfort dish that is accessible to everyone.

Dessert

To finish, I had the Pariani hazelnut & Frangelico bavarois with Azelia 35% Valrhona chocolate and coffee. Sam sources these hazelnuts all the way from Italy – a length he would only go to if it offered something special, and special it was. As you can see from the picture above, the presentation is striking, featuring a delicate, intricately structured chocolate tuile that sits beautifully atop the bavarois. The bavarois itself had an incredible, silky consistency that melted the moment it hit my tongue, while the nuttiness of the hazelnut paired against the deep, bittersweet notes of the chocolate showed why he went to such lengths to source it from Italy. It was rich, boozy, and packed with flavour, but despite that intensity, it didn’t feel heavy. It was a sophisticated end to the meal that showed exactly why you don’t need a massive portion to feel like you’ve had a proper treat.

Pub grub refined

This is refined pub grub that offers a taste comparable to other fine-dining institutions in Cambridge, but without the hefty price tag. Yes, this is a pub, but it is a beautiful historic English pub with a lot of character and charm. Sam has taken The Burleigh Arms menu and made it his own. While the old menu was often daring and exotic, Sam has brought it back home with familiar classic pub grub that is – quite simply – excellent. It is a journey worth following, and I’m looking forward to seeing where Sturman takes the menu from here.

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