“ad” – Why is this here?

The restaurant space on Fore Hill in Ely has changed hands once again, taking over from Malabarikh Atelier. While Malabarikh Atelier suffered from consistency problems throughout its short life, my final visit there was actually very impressive – they had managed to turn things around, but unfortunately it proved to be too little, too late.

Luckily for local diners, the venue remains a traditional South Indian eatery under its new banner, Grand Kerala, which boasts a vast menu spanning traditional curries, Middle Eastern dishes, seafood, and Indo-Chinese fusion.

Fans of Malabarikh Atelier will be glad to hear that not a tremendous amount has changed on the surface, with the same type of regional cuisine, a large varied menu, and a familiar interior. The owners are due to close for two weeks shortly for a full refurbishment, so the interior may look very different soon, but for now, the kitchen is open and firing on all cylinders.

The Dishes

Masala Dosa

The Masala Dosa has always been a favourite of mine. I love it when it arrives as one massive wrap that dominates the entire table rather than being sliced up beforehand, and Grand Kerala delivers on that presentation. The wrap itself was extra crispy and impressive in size, accompanied by a lovely, mild side curry for dipping. While it was slightly on the oily side and could have used a touch more filling, the overall flavour was spot on and made for an enjoyable start.

Gobi Manchurian

Indo-Chinese cuisine is not usually my primary go-to, but their Gobi Manchurian (cauliflower) was a fairly decent take. It is a fantastic option for vegetarians, a section of the menu that is exceptionally well-represented here. Visually, it is a colourful dish that brings great vibrancy to the table with a mild, warming spice. While it lacked a little depth of flavour and arrived lukewarm, the complex textures made it a worthwhile addition to the spread.

Fish 65

The Fish 65 was bloody lovely. Served with a vibrant red coating, the crispy exterior gave way to soft, juicy fish inside. It is a classic demonstration of a traditional Indian starter and a dish I would strongly encourage most visitors to try.

Beef Paratha Clay Pot

The Beef Paratha was a personal highlight of the meal. Presented in a striking clay pot lined with banana leaves, it featured thin strips of lightly spiced beef resting on a bed of paratha. My initial concern was that the paratha would become soggy by soaking up all the sauce from above, but it maintained its crispiness surprisingly well. The combination of crispy bread slathered in spicy, rich sauce alongside soft, juicy beef was a winner. I cannot recommend this one enough!

Pothi Biryani

Unwrapping the banana leaf of the Pothi Biryani released a fantastic plume of steam, revealing a generous bed of rice concealing pieces of tandoori chicken. While the chicken itself was decent enough, the rice from this dum biryani was unfortunately stodgy and lacking in flavour. Compared to some of the top-tier biryani options available nearby in Cambridge, this one fell a bit flat.

Lamb Mandi

Demonstrating the remarkable breadth of the menu, the Lamb Mandi is a Yemeni dish that felt almost more at home next door at Ely Turkish. Served on a large bed of rice, the impressive joint of lamb had a robust, deep flavour. Rather than being cooked to the point of falling into mush, the meat retained enough structure to stay firmly on the bone. It gave a solid, satisfying bite that made a refreshing change from typical slow-braised meats. The meat itself comes highly recommended, though the accompanying rice was, like the biryani, was better but quite flat.

Mango Prawn Curry

If you love seafood, the Mango Prawn Curry will rock your socks off. Swimming in a sweet coconut curry sauce packed with juicy king prawns, this was one of the richest and most distinctly fishy-tasting dishes I have had in ages. It provides a sweet, aromatic contrast to standard spicy curries and stands out as a clear example of what Grand Kerala brings to the local food scene.

The Verdict

With this specific Fore Hill venue having seen several iterations over the years, it will be interesting to see how Grand Kerala fares long-term. As part of an established chain with locations across the country, there is a good chance it will bring welcome stability to the site.

Grand Kerala brings something genuinely unique to Ely’s dining scene with beautiful presentation throughout my experience. However, as is often the case with sprawling menus, quality can vary depending on what you order. Local fans of South Indian food who don’t want to travel into Cambridge will likely need to visit a couple of times to learn what works best for them.

Thanks for reading!