Cambridge Foodies

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It only feels like yesterday when The Indian Ocean was a rather ordinary Indian restaurant that always served the locals well but failed to stand out from the stiff competition in the area.

Then, in 2019 everything changed. The Indian Ocean completely reinvented itself by moving away from the Indian-British fusion we all know and love to authentic high-end Indian cuisine. I visited several years ago after the big change and I was thoroughly impressed with the quality on offer. I was particularly pleased to have such a high level of cuisine in the North of Cambridge, giving people in the fens like myself an option for fine dining without having to battle into Cambridge.

I was very kindly invited by restaurant owner Ruhel Hoque to their Wednesday night taster menu by chef Kamaladasam Dasan. Kamal has a celebrated reputation and has worked for some of the top Indian restaurants around, including local restaurants Navadhanya, as well as the prestigious Tamarind of Mayfair.

I have met alot of really good cooks and chefs in my life. Not only is Kamal at the top of the list, he is quite possibly the most natural cook I know

Kareem Roberts – Trinity restaurant

While speaking to the head chef at Trinity Restaurant, Kareem Roberts, I had mentioned in passing that I was due to dine at the Indian Ocean, which was immediately met with a recognition of respect for chef Kamaladasam Dasan. I was told that I was in for a treat which only fuelled my excitement further.

Upon entering, I immediately noticed the sophistication of the restaurant. The staff warmly greeted me and led us to our table. Everyone in the team from start to finish was highly attentive and made sure that we never went without throughout the entire experience.

The walls proudly displayed a string of awards won since the Indian Ocean’s renaissance, ranging from Curry Life’s ‘Editors Choice’ and ‘Best In Cambridgeshire’ to the National Curry Awards ‘editors choice’ award. This is a very reassuring view to have while dining and something very few restaurants can boast about.

The set menu is a 7 course meal that comes to £55. There is also a vegetarian option for each course (that I will list during the review). There are numerous beer choices on the menu with Cobra beer on draft. As each course was brought out, a member of the team explained the dish to give us an idea of what we were having.

1. Bombay Bhel Puri

We started off with the ‘Bombay Bhel Puri’ that was served in the shape of a cone in a bowl of uncooked lentils. This is topped with caviar chutney that adds a beautiful flavour with a soft texture to an otherwise crispy bite. I never thought I would have chutney caviar in my life but here we are! 🤣

This was the perfect light and fun start to a 7 course meal, though it did get a little messy as the cone flaked off while eating, so watch out!

2. Chaat

Next was the chaat. This was beautifully presented on a charcoal coloured plate. The chaat consisted of a spiced Jerusalem artichoke crisp, apricot yoghurt and coriander pure. The apricot yoghurt and coriander really brought this dish to life and was as refreshing as it was flavorful.

3. Tandoori cod

One of the highlights of the evening was the ‘Tandoori Cod’, a stunning dish presented in spinach pakora, tempered uri, black garlic and dill oil. The cod was executed perfectly with a beautifully succulent texture. The spinach pakora added a lovely crispy crunch on top.

The vegetarian alternative was “Fennel V – Roasted Fennel, Spinach Pakora, Tempered Uri, Black Garlic and Dill Oil”

4. Sorbet

We were then presented with a sorbet to cleanse the pallet between courses. I have often struggled to get excited for sorbet but this was delicious and very refreshing.

5. Corn fed chicken thighs

Another highlight for me was the ‘Corn Fed Chicken Thigh’. This is something I cook quite frequently at home but after trying this I was firmly reminded how far I have to go on my culinary journey. 🤣

The corn fed chicken came with aloo tikki, sticky wings, roasted corn and smoked makhani. There was a very striking sweetness to this dish that made it very easy on the pallet. I liked the very novel roasted corn to remind me that the chicken was corn fed too. The makhani (Butter Chicken) also gives the people who may still enjoy a curry a little nod during the experience, which we thought was a nice touch considering one of those people is me.

The vegetarian alternative was – “Paneer V – Paneer, Aloo Tikki, Roasted Corn and Smoked Makhani”

6. Chettinad goat

Further adding to the rich tapestry of exciting and diverse dishes this evening was the sublime chettinad goat. This consisted of a roasted goat leg, gobi kempu bezule, puree, chettinad Jus, malabar paratha and lemon rice.

My guest Ollie said that the goat was so tender that it could have easily been mistaken for lamb. The gobi kempu bezule (a deep fried cauliflower dish) made a delicious topping while the malabar paratha provided a soft and light pancake base that perfectly accompanied the rest of the dish.

I know there are some people out there who are unsure on trying goat. This was one of the best examples of goat I have had, so if you are on the fence, the Indian Ocean is the place to try it!

The vegetarian alternative was – “Tandoori Broccoli – Tandoori Roasted Broccoli, Gobi Kenpo Puree and Chettinad Jus, Malabar Paratha”

7. Salted caramel kulfi & tart

The salted caramel kulfi & tart was a perfect end to the 7 course journey.

The tart was filled with delicious candied heritage purple carrots. The kulfi ice cream was so soft, smooth and creamy, with an explosion of flavour that complimented the tart perfectly. They especially paired together in texture as the pastry crumbled into the kulfi on my spoon.

Ollie described it perfectly,

“The kulfi is to ice cream what espresso is to weak black coffee”.

Ollie Norris

The entire evening was course after course of culinary brilliance. Each dish excited and fascinated me in one way or another. Truly a credit to chef Kamal’s excellence. The service was impeccable, as was the atmosphere, and I thought £55 for the experience was great value too. I know several places where you would pay significantly more for less.

Here is a sneak peak at the up and coming October menu coming soon (subject to change). I am very excited to try the ‘best end lamb’ and ‘tandoori mackerel’.

It looks like I will have to make another trip! Woe me!

For more information on the Indian Ocean, please visit their website.

Thanks for reading!