“ad” – Why is this here?

It is always a bit of a moment when a long-standing Mill Road institution decides to completely reinvent itself.

What used to be a local café for two decades has recently undergone a serious transformation and reopened as Big Grill. It is the same Palestinian team behind the scenes, led by Mohammed, but the focus has shifted entirely to Mediterranean charcoal cooking.

The restaurant looks significantly better from the outside after a new sign and a bit of modernisation and the interior is looking much fresher too – though a word of warning for the taller crowd: watch your head on the rather charming hanging lights, as I nearly took one out on my way to the table! The restaurant isn’t huge so I recommend big parties book in advance. Despite this, it adds a small intimate atmosphere with nice big windows that allow you to watch out onto Mill Road while you dine.

The setup is reassuringly transparent. You can see the action in the kitchen through a protective screen, which is a great touch because it lets you see your food hitting the charcoal without getting smoked out of the building. The back opens up into a courtyard-style garden with a rooftop canopy, serving as a shisha lounge. It is a great spot to digest after a heavy meal and gives the restaurant an extra dimension from a “eat and go” sort of place. This means you can make an evening of it here.

Cold Meze

Speaking of heavy meals, we didn’t hold back. We started with the cold meze. On the current menu, they have a selection of classics like hummus, baba ganoush, and mutabbal. It was all beautifully presented and a decent way to prime the palate before the meat arrived. Everything tasted fresh but was missing some pita bread, so I had to request this on top.

The King Royal Platter

For the main event, we went for the “King Royal” mixed platter. This is where the value really shines. While the online price is listed higher, the physical menu shows it at £64, and Mohammed confirmed that is the price they are sticking to. At £64 for four people, it undercuts several of its rivals on Mill Road, making it a very competitive option for a group.

Expect a mountain of food – lamb kofta, chicken shish taouk, lamb shish, wings, and lamb chops, all served with rice or fries, salad, and bread. The chicken had a really bold, marinated flavour, but the lamb was the star for me – thick, juicy, and the kind of thing you can really enjoy sinking your teeth into. It came served with a side of cous cous which I found a little stodgy, but the quality of the meat over the grill more than made up for it. I enjoyed the cuts of corn on the cob and balls of spiced rice but what really set it apart from other platters were the roasted cashew nuts which were a lovely touch. Everything about this platter was colourful, plentiful, and interesting; a great centrepiece for 4 friends to share.

Charcoal Seabass

I also have to mention the charcoal-grilled sea bass my guest ordered. It looked absolutely beautiful – soft, chunky, and delicately cooked skin-on to retain all its moisture. Cooking it over open charcoal imparted an exquisite smoky flavour profile that you simply don’t get from a standard pan-fry. It arrived on an adorable fish-shaped plate, accompanied by a rather striking mixed salad and a side of thick-cut chips. The crisp, fresh salad offered a harmonious blend of textures against the tender fish, making the entire plate a triumph. Everything at Big Grill has such vibrancy, proving that presentation is at the very heart of everything they prepare.

While we were tackling the grill, I was offered a fruit juice – served in a full pint glass. It was sweet, refreshing, and exactly what I needed to cut through the richness of the meal. I thought that this would be a good choice for anyone thinking of avoiding the summer heat in their back garden under the shaded canopy.

From Café to Restaurant

There is something very Mill Road about sitting by the window, watching the world go by while you are tucked away with a massive plate of food. Given the level of competition on this stretch of road, it will be interesting to see how they fair, but being able to watch the chaos of the street from such a historic spot is a great draw.

If you are looking for proper Mediterranean cooking with no pretence, this is a very strong addition to the street. I look forward to hearing what you all think on the Cambridge Foodies group.

Thanks for reading.